Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
